Review: 5 Spice China Grill

John and Johnson Tan's newest venture puts a spicy seal on Springfield's newest dining dynasty.

It would be easy to begin any evaluation of 5 Spice China Grill by comparing it to John and Johnson Tan’s original Springfield restaurant, Ocean Zen Pacific Rim. After all, Ocean Zen began in the same location where 5 Spice opened last April, and it has since moved to fancy new digs on East Battlefield Street. But 5 Spice is not Ocean Zen. In fact, there’s almost nothing similar about them, aside from the building and its so-overused-it-hurts “fusion cuisine” label. Oh, and the fact that it is utterly fabulous.

WHAT TO SEE

The first thing you’ll probably notice when you pull in to 5 Spice is that the parking lot has not grown. The exterior sign is a beauty—bright red and easy to read. A giant wok, which reminds us fondly of the huge fork that used to adorn South Glenstone Avenue, stands in sculpture near the entrance.
Once inside, you get a similar vibe from the old Ocean Zen, but it’s a totally new experience. It’s still elegant, to be sure, but red has replaced blue as the dominant color, and antique (or antique-looking) artifacts line the walls and shelves where fish tanks formerly sat. The bar, with its discretely placed TVs (good for you, 5 Spice!) hasn’t moved, and neither has the kitchen, which provides value-added entertainment for those who sit near the door. A private room, with its own TV, connects off the north end of the restaurant.

WHAT TO EAT

But you want to know about the food. Originally promising a menu that’s “P.F. Chang’s–like,” the Tans didn’t deviate too far from that promise. This is Chinese food. There is no sushi menu. The biggest adjustment was the fact that all dishes are served “family–style,” which means they are brought in single, large portions and shared by the table. (You can order single portions, although it is not encouraged.) The menu explains the process in detail, so be sure to give yourself time. Hint: Don’t over-order. Three entrées more than fed a somewhat piggish group of four during one of my two visits.

So what to order: I must say, go with your gut. If you like orange-glazed chicken ($7.95 and available only at lunch), get that. If you’re a fan of Mongolian beef, you’ll love 5 Spice’s take on it. Good news for those with sensitive taste buds: Any dish can be ordered at varying levels of spiciness. (Alas, our charming waiter wouldn’t divulge what, exactly, those five spices are.)

Personally, I loved the Sweet and spicy Mongolian beef ($7.95 at lunch, $12.95 at dinner), as well as the pan-seared pork and shrimp pot sticker appetizer ($7.95). The pot-stickers were scrumptious, though a bit well done on the bottom—I couldn’t tell if they were overcooked or if that was just the result of the pan-searing. The only dish I didn’t find satisfying was the sea bass entrée, which isn’t served family-style. For the price, I found the portion lacking and the fish bland (though amazingly tender). The restaurant serves, according to executive chef Johnson Tan, Springfield’s only truly Chinese version of Peking duck.

WHAT TO ADD ON

For dessert, try the Emperor’s Great Wall of Chocolate ($7.95), flourless chocolate cake, raspberry sauce and vanilla bean ice cream, which eats like a brownie. The restaurant has a nice wine menu. Our server was quite good at suggesting wines to go with certain dishes, which I always appreciate. If you’re not into wine, ask the server to get whomever is manning the full bar to whip up a wasabi-soy bloody Mary ($7). Using 5 Spice’s proprietary bloody Mary mixture, it’s the best I’ve ever had. (Sorry, Dad!)

Johnson Tan, in a recent interview with GO Magazine, said that with 5 Spice, he wanted to show Springfield how real Chinese food tastes, taking it to a level beyond the Styrofoam boxes and buffets that line our streets. “The way to do that is to bring real, quality Chinese,” he said. “A place where you can have wine with dinner.”

5 Spice is that, and a whole lot more.

About Reviewing

Reviews are written by our editors as a service to readers, without advertising consideration. Visits are as anonymous as possible, and all expenses are paid by 417 Magazine. New restaurants are allowed four weeks to establish themselves before a first visit. To comment, please use our new Dining Feedback section on 417mag.com.