North Side Dining

A Houlihan's franchise moved into the Doubletree Hotel on the north side of Springfield. How does is stack up on the flavor and value scales?

By the time Houlihan’s opened in Springfield, it had been about half a decade since I ate at one of the restaurant’s St. Louis locations. And for that entire half-decade, I had been craving the dish that I tried there: a salad of chopped cabbage, cilantro, bananas, banana chips and cashews that was topped with a banana-ginger vinaigrette and calamari. I had idealized this salad. I tried it not long after Houlihan’s gave itself a face-lift, sprucing up the décor and adding fresher ingredients and more adventurous menu items. It was a such a change from what was on the restaurant’s old menu (which, full discloser, I really did not enjoy), that I found myself holding it up as the gold standard for big entrée salads, which are one of my favorite things to eat.

So of course when Houlihan’s opened its doors in 417-land, I was anxious to see if that salad was still on the menu. It was, as a chef’s special. I ordered it, and thankfully it lived up to my memory: a delightful mix of textures, from crunchy cabbage and banana chips to soft banana slices and crispy fried calamari. The dressing was tangy and light, and even though the salad has bananas in it three times over, it’s not too sweet. Loved it.

On that same visit, my boyfriend ordered the fish tacos with a side of chips and salsa. They are fish tacos done right, with crispy fried white fish that manages to not be too greasy and spicy strips of cabbage that complement it perfectly. I tried a bit and liked them so much that I ordered them on a later visit.

Houlihan’s Located inside Doubletree Hotel, 2431 N. Glenstone Ave., Springfield, 417-862-7777 Mon.–Sat., 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Bar open until midnight Fri. and Sat.

For dessert, we tried one of the samplers. The menu says that the desserts are small, so they offer combos where you can try three desserts for less than $6. We had the banana cream pie, the crème brûlée and the pecan pie. Here I have to say that Houlihan’s is a liar, but it’s sort of a good lie. The “small” desserts were pretty big, and the two of us barely made in a dent in our three-pack. But that just increases the value for me. On a later visit, he and I split just one dessert (the ridiculously decadent cappuccino cake). It was enough for us both after our big meals, and it was less than $3.

Also on that later visit, he ordered the almond-crusted tilapia from the chef’s specials menu. After I tried a bite, I started to experience intense entrée jealously. The fish was well-prepared, and the crust was buttery and delicious. The sides were tasty, too: grilled asparagus (not shocking) and and fresh berries (quite unexpected). Mmm... I loved it.

Sadly, I think consistency is not Houlihan’s strongest point, at least so far. I ordered the regular menu version of my favorite salad on a later visit (basically the same, except you sub ahi tuna for the calamari), and it was not nearly as good. I couldn’t find the cilantro or the bananas, and there was way too much dressing. The experience just wasn’t the same.

I’ve noticed similar inconsistency when it comes to service. At lunch in particular, I’ve noticed that it took ages to get the ticket on a few visits. And although our servers have always been as nice as can be, I’ve noticed varying degrees of attentiveness. During one friend’s lunch at Houlihan’s (which took two hours), her order came out of the kitchen incorrect three times. You could chalk this up to servers or cooks having a rough day, and it certainly is not going to keep me from dining there in the future. I’d rather give them the benefit of the doubt, and I really do enjoy the food. But I would like to see the lunchtime service improve, so I know I can go there during the workday without having to worry about taking too long a lunch. (This is especially true since the restaurant touts its 15-minute lunch guarantee.)

If consistency improves, though, I would rank this place high on my list of chain restaurants. The staff is friendly, and the décor is inviting. Quality and presentation are above-average, and the restaurant’s very peppery calamari is among my favorite ways to get a squid fix.

Right around press time, we were hearing rumblings of a second Houlihan’s location set to go in farther south than the one I visited at the Doubletree Hotel. We’ll keep you posted as we learn more.